GOLCONDA JEWELRY
ANTIQUE, VINTAGE & SIGNED ARTIST JEWELRY
This delicate pendant features six rare table-cut diamonds, framed by a filigree-style metalwork surround sometime referred to in literature as a croix 'à la Jeanette' or ‘croix papillon’, simply translated as a butterfly pendant.
The name is derived from the tradition whereby working girls, usually hired on St. John’s Day, purchased a croix à la Jeanette with their first salary.
Circa 1750, this pendant is in excellent condition, with the reverse given as much attention and care as the front. These were usually worn on a ribbon in the style of a choker necklace.
A slate grey silk ribbon as pictured makes for a chic pairing, although a black velvet ribbon would be a classic choice.
This pendant is unmarked, and this style of pendant is seen in France, throughout Northern Europe, as far as Flanders, starting around 1840, .
Period: 18th Century Flemish, Georgian (1720-1840)
Style: gold & silver, featuring 25 additional smaller rose-cut diamond chips, sometimes also called senailles. The six largest diamonds are table-cut diamonds.
Dimensions: 3 inches length x 2 inches width
Additional Notes: There are examples of this style in various institutional collections. A photo of the example at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris illustrates the popularity of this style. You will note, however, that the large, white table-cut diamonds on this jewel indicate the high social standing of the owner. Moreover, the reverse of the jewel is as beautifully crafted as the front.
Bibliography:
Fieggen, Michael C.W., Les Bijoux des Français.